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A Guide to Visiting Somerset

Where to Visit in Somerset

I’ve been meaning to write a proper guide to Somerset, the county I really consider home, for ages now. But every time I visit I never quite tick off the list of places I want to go or photograph, and then a new one pops up. So, let’s call this part one, shall we? 

With most of our holidays this year focussing on the UK, I couldn’t recommend a weekend away in the West Country enough. I may be a tad biased, but I don’t think you’ll be disappointed if you’ve never ventured that way before. Ok, so Cornwall, Dorset and Devon might have better beaches, but there are PLENTY of stunning natural (and otherwise) spots in the land of cheese and cider that can more than fill your countryside getaway.

Getting There & Getting Around

You can get to the heart of Somerset in just over an hour and a half on the train from London, or if you’ve got a car it’ll be around a three-hour trip from the capital. 

If you’re not a driver, getting around in Somerset won’t be the easiest, so you’ll have to plan your trip accordingly. Public transport is few and far between and taxis can be particularly expensive (when you’re actually able to get hold of one). But it’s not impossible! On a trip last summer we struck up deals with a friendly local taxi driver who would agree to pick us up and drop us off at certain times. No Uber here, I’m afraid! 

Bruton

When I started hearing of Londoners heading for weekends in Bruton I was a little confused- it’s a small village, and as far as I could remember from my brief dealings with it growing up, there wasn’t a huge amount going on. I obviously wasn’t looking in the right places. Over the past decade it’s been taken over by rich folk moving out from the city for a slice of countryside life, and with that comes the boutique hotels, restaurants and shops that wouldn’t look out of place in East London. Slight cynicism aside, there is a lovely little community of shops and places to eat, and it makes for a great base during a trip to the county, even if you don’t end up getting much further.

At The Chapel, Bruton
Caro, Bruton

Stay at the newly opened Number One Bruton. Their 12-bedroom hotel is comprised of a townhouse, a row of cottages, and a medieval forge. Each of their rooms looks absolutely beautiful. I haven’t had the opportunity to try them myself just yet, but it’s definitely on my hit list. 

Make a booking for dinner at At The Chapel, or stop by for bread and cakes in the morning. Rifle through vintage at Swan Vintage, or old prints at Michael Lewis Gallery. Browse the gallery at Hauser & Wirth, and don’t miss their Oudolf Field. Lunch at the adjoining Roth Bar & Grill is a treat, but again, make sure to book in advance! 

Caro on the high street stocks some of your favourite cool brands, and Rose & Lyons on the other side of the road is a great place for gifts, too. 

I’ve not managed a booking at Michelin Star winner Osip yet (and in all honesty, the menus look a little upmarket for my simple tastes) but this small restaurant celebrates farm-to-table dining and comes highly regarded. 

Oh, and don’t forget to pick up some local cheese at the Godminster Shop!

Stourhead

If you’re staying in Bruton, you won’t be too far from the National Trust’s Stourhead. I suppose it’s technically mostly in Wiltshire, but it’s so close by that I couldn’t not include it. This property and its famous gardens are well worth the entrance fee. You can spend an entire afternoon strolling the walk around the lake, coming across monuments, temples and grottoes all placed thoughtfully along the route, which is said to have been inspired by Aeneas’s descent into the underworld. Pack a picnic and find a spot by the lake to enjoy it, although you might have to share with the ducks! 

You might recognise the Temple of Apollo from the 2005 version of Pride and Prejudice.

Mells

There isn’t a shortage of pretty villages in Somerset, but Mells is one of my favourites (and it seems I’m not the only one, as it was voted among the “20 most beautiful villages in the UK and Ireland” by Condé Nast Traveler in 2020). Not too far from Frome (in fact, you can do a river walk between the two), it’s home to the award-winning Talbot Inn pub, a great place to head for lunch or dinner. It’s Walled Garden Cafe is also a great place to stop. 

Life of Riley, Frome
Frome

Another spot with a burgeoning creative and independent scene that you might have already heard of! I wrote a guide to visiting Frome a few years ago (it requires a little updating, as is, unfortunately, the nature when talking about independent businesses) but you won’t miss many of its highlights if you wander the length of beautiful Catherine Hill or Cheap Street.

Grab a coffee at Moo & Two, shop menswear at Assembly, scour vintage at The Dandy Lion and Life of Riley, stop by Studio Ashay for in-house design and made women’s clothing, get lunch at Rye Bakery or Bistro Lotte, and hunt down records at Raves from the Grave. 

Frome really comes alive during its once-monthly independent market, so if you can time your visit for that you’ll be in for a treat. 

Oh. And it’s pronounced FROOME, just to avoid any potential future embarrassment! 

Rye Bakery, Frome
Cheddar Gorge

One of the most beautiful spots in Somerset has to be Cheddar Gorge. It’s a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and the largest gorge in Britain with cliffs that rise over 450ft. A hike to the top will give you unparalleled views of the county and even further. You can do various walks up (there are plenty of guides online) but the simplest to navigate might be Jacob’s Ladder, a set of steps that you’re able to pay to access. The caves here in Cheddar directly inspired JRR Tolkien’s Helms Deep.

You’d be right if you assumed that Cheddar is also the birthplace of the globally-adored cheese. There is now only one cheesemaker left in Cheddar, which you’ll find in the village- here you can watch them making cheddar and do tastings. Their cheese straws are my favourite and can quite easily munch my way through an entire pack in a sitting. 

As it’s such a widely-known spot, on a nice day in the holidays Cheddar can and will get incredibly busy. Last August we could only drive through a couple of times and circle the car parks hoping for a spot before giving up as it was totally packed. 

If that does happen (or even if it doesn’t!), console yourself with a punnet of local strawberries that can be bought on the roadside where they are grown.

Wells

Not far from Cheddar you’ll find the smallest city in England, Wells. You’ll probably have seen Wells before if you’re a fan of the Cornetto Trilogy- it’s where Hot Fuzz was filmed, so is frequently full of visitors taking pictures of the locations and looking for swans. They aren’t too hard to track down- just head to the Bishops Palace moat. If you like wandering around old buildings as much as I do, the Bishops Palace and gardens and neighbouring cathedral are worth investigating. The most picturesque spot is Vicar’s Close by the Cathedral, claimed to be the oldest purely residential street with original buildings intact in Europe. 

The Good Earth is always a good spot to grab lunch, and stop by at Wells Reclamation for vintage and antiques.

Vintage & Antiques

If you are keen to hunt down antiques, coincide your trip with the Shepton Mallet Antiques and Collectors Fair or the Giant Flea Market at the Bath & West Showground. The next Antiques fair is on the 17th-19th September, and the Giant Flea on May 30th, July 18th and September 26th. 

If you want to do a bit of bargain hunting on a regular weekend, Cheddar Car Boot is one of the biggest and best. It runs every Sunday from 6am- get there as early as possible if you want to find the best bits as that’s when all of the experts will be there scooping up the most valuable finds. 

The Newt

A fairly new addition to Somerset is The Newt, a country estate hotel and gardens. Whilst I’ve not had the pleasure of bedding down for the night (the Stableyard rooms look particularly cosy), I’ve eaten a couple of great lunches at their Garden Cafe and had a good wander around the grounds. 

It’s worth noting there is an entrance fee to access the garden and its eateries- it’s £30 for a membership that will last you a year. If you are only visiting the area for a day and don’t plan on heading back anytime soon, I think it’s a little steep (particularly if you are visiting as a group) as you are paying to get in and will probably go on to spend more money in the cafes and shops. But on a sunny day it’s a lovely way to spend an afternoon- from what I’ve read, they will be expanding the experience, so I’m looking forward to seeing what else is on offer the next time I visit. 

I’d highly recommend the Cyder tasting if you’re a fan- you’ll get access to the Cyder press and cellar and learn all about the process of how they make their unique Newt Cyders, from apple to bottle, with one to take home with you at the end.

Their calendar of events looks great, so it’s definitely worth keeping an eye on it if you’re visiting the area.

Glastonbury

When you think of Somerset, perhaps the iconic Glastonbury Tor comes to mind? On a nice evening, a walk up the Tor with a picnic to watch the sunset couldn’t be more ideal. It does get busy at times depending on when you’re visiting and the weather- it can get pretty windy up there! But the views across the levels and all the way to Wales are very much worth it.

Bath

I can’t not mention Bath! Again, I’ve written a separate post about Bath (now a little outdated and in need of an update- please do check that places are open before heading to them to avoid disappointment!) but I thought it worth including in this more broad guide as a suggestion for a day trip while you are visiting Somerset. There isn’t a chance you haven’t already heard of beautiful Bath and its warm golden Bath stone streets. It’s only around half an hour’s drive away from some of the places listed above. 

Where to Stay

Normally when I’m in Somerset I’m sleeping in my childhood bedroom, so I don’t have many personal recommendations to offer you as far as places to stay, but last year I had a wonderful night at Mollie’s Hut. You’ll have friendly horses for neighbours (the kitchen is located in the stables!) and very friendly hosts- they had baked us an entire Victoria sponge for our arrival! 

If I were booking a trip to Somerset, I’d have my eye on The Newt, Number One Bruton, The Talbot Inn, and The Pig Near Bath. Or for something a little more rustic- the selection on Canopy & Stars is pretty wonderful. 

I hope this post helps anyone planning a trip to Somerset this summer. As I mentioned, there are always places I wanted to try or haven’t photographed yet, so I hope I’ll be able to return with an update for you. But I have no doubt this will keep you busy for now! If you’d like to suggest any West Country gems in the comments for anyone reading, that’s always extremely appreciated!

Thing to do in Somerset

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02.12.2021
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